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High-Beam Garage Door Control
Tips
Back to Tips
This tip originates from Jon (jsarge@usi-seattle.com),
and the location of this tip on his Web Site is:
http://www.usi-seattle.com/jon/doorcontrol.htm.
GL1800 High-Beam Garage Door Control
I'll admit it: I'm new to this Goldwing, and I didn't like having to take my
hands off the handlebars at low speed for anything, especially to reach for
my garage door opener remote control while negotiating the turn into our
driveway and its associated curb bump.
I thought I would wire a remote pushbutton to the opener like I did for my
cars, but I'd still have to take my hands off the bars while negotiating the
driveway or the curb bump.
I saw an ad for a high-beam interlock controller in a HD catalog which would
take a signal from the high-beam light switch and energize a new
transmitter. A new receiver mounted in your garage would effectively "push
the button" in the garage to work your garage door opener. The transmitter
portion of this assembly was $125 and each new receiver was another $30. As
an electronics hobbyist, I knew there had to be a way to do this much
cheaper, and use my existing remote control.
I set about designing a timer circuit that would take this signal and
produce a momentary output that I could use to energize my existing remote.
I spent a day working on this, and finally came across the right design that
would work each time. I made a material list and headed off to the local
electronic store (Radio Shack carries very little, anymore) for a parts run.
I grabbed a basket and started loading it up with the various parts needed,
and decided to look over their selection of kits to see if they had
something that my spark some interest in my boys. Right there on the shelf
was a complete kit of almost the same design as what I was building for $10!
Complete with a printed circuit board, screw terminal connectors, indicator
LED, etc.
I put my assortment of parts away and picked up the controller, took it
home, soldered it together and tested it - PERFECT! Each time the input was
toggled on (high beams to "ON"), the output generated a 12V signal, which I
wired directly to my remote control's 12V battery terminals (I was lucky to
have this style of Genie opener). The relay contacts can also be wired to
act as a "remote pushbutton" for controllers that have a different battery
source voltage. The only downside to that is that the remote will eventually
require a battery replacement, so make sure it's easy to get to.
Here's a schematic diagram showing how the timer circuit is connected to the
high-beam switch circuit and your existing controller. Click on the image to
see the full-size version.
Since this is an "interval timer" controller, I modified the timer circuit
slightly to increase the time between pulses so that the opener wouldn't
pulse continuously every minute while driving with the high beams on. The
circuit comes with two potentiometers, one to adjust the time between
pulses: "pause time" and one to adjust how long the output is held on:
"pulse time". I replaced the supplied 1Megohm pot (which equals 1 minute
pause time) with two 10Megohm resistors in series for 20Megohm total. This
gives me a 20 minute time between output pulses, which should be fine.
If you're interested in this type of control, but feel you might be
intimidated by the process, trust me, it's not that hard. The kit is rated
"easy" (one soldering iron) in its' skill requirement and is labeled as a
"beginner" kit. If you're still interested,
let
me know and I can either point you in the right direction to purchase a
kit, or put together a kit for you. If you have a newer garage door opener
(one that accepts newer, digital remotes such as the Genie Intellicode), I
could even provide a small universal remote pre-wired to a timer assembly
and ready to install. Just
let
me know. |